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Posted by: perry on 11/22/2005 09:37 AM
Updated by: perry on 11/25/2005 09:00 AM
Expires: 01/01/2010 12:00 AM
Diyarbakir again, then Hasankeyf, Mor Gabriel Monistery, and Kiziltepe

I spent a couple more days hanging out with my really cool host and his friends in Diyarbakir before heading off again for five nights going to the ancient cave cits of Hasankeyf, then to a monistery, and then a couple days in Kiziltepe. Read on (and leave comments).


10 November, 2005

I took a bus from Senyurt to Kiziltepe and on to Diyarbakir. When I got there, I decided to go on my own and walk around the city a little bit. I was walking toward the city passing people who were killing and cutting apart goats in the road. Two kids ran past me with the innards of a goat and a knife and I that they were going to go play with it. What a toy, eh?

On the way to the wall, like usual, I got some company. This time I got a couple high school aged boys trying to show me the way. Then one of them suggested I take a picture of him with the wall in the distance. So I did. It was a cool picture. But right afterwards he wanted to take a picture for me. I'm not going to give my camera to anyone. And since it was securely put away in my shirt pocket, all was ok. Then he reached for it. I grabbed his arm and thew him past me. What a little jerk. Then he took a step toward me and I clinched my fists. Just then an adult came by and saw the kid and he really gave him a yell. Of course as I was walking away the kid asked me for money. What a jerk. I just kept on walking.

As I was heading toward the wall, I found I had to go down through a valley in the city and a nice lady pointed the direction for me. When I finally got to the wall, some construction workers who were fixing the wall pointed the direction to the nearest entry through the wall so I could get on top.

Like usual, even while I was walking at the top of the wall, I would get kids yelling to me in english Hello, what is your name. It's funny, that's all they know. Some of them say Hello Donkey, but they have no idea what that even means. Sometimes I tell the kids that my name is Donkey, just to screw with them.

I found a nice place to sit in the sun and I sat and read my book and wrote in my journal for a while. When I was tired of writing I headed off to walk along the wall towards my host's apartment and to go to the internet cafe nearby. On the way I met up with some of the guys I had met on the wall the previous week. They offered to smoke a joint with me, but I decided not to as I was getting over a bit of a cold and had a cough.

On the way to the internet cafe, I ran into Cengis and he told me to go to Abdo's place to meet up with everyone. I headed to Abdo and joined him for supper. I gathered my things and brought them to Serhat's place as now the his family had gone back to Adana, I was going to be sleeping there.

We went to Yusuf's place so I could help him with his linux setup. He decided to set up a network similar to how I had just done in Darende, but he did it completely the wrong way. If anyone is interested in the detail, leave a comment. Otherwise, I'll save myself a few hundred words describing it.

11 November, 2005

I woke up a bit late and headed off to Yusuf's place to finish helping him set up his network. He picked up a really good breakfast for me, but somehow and accidently a little meat got mixed in. So I headed off to get some more food. This time I got a pizza bread thing, but once I got a few bites in, I found meat again. Gar!!!

I spent much of the day teaching him what an OS really is (not windows, not graphics, come on people, Windows 95/98/XP is not an OS. It's a shitty graphical interface to a shitty OS). He really learned quick too. What's the first thing to teach someone new to Linux? I think man pages and ls /bin /usr/bin /usr/local/bin. From there, you can learn so much. While he was exploring his new system, I spent the day uploading pictures.

Serhat and Abdo came by to pick us up and we all went out for dinner. I had a cheese pida (pizza, sort of. Nothing like a real italian pizza). In the restaurant there was a girl who was clearly not Turkish. I went to talk to her. She is from Sweden and was in town visiting her boyfriend. She was the first westerner I'd seen in quite a while and it was refreshing to speak to her.

We ended up spending the rest of the evening walking around and when Serhat and I got back to his place I introduced him to some yoga stretches. He really liked them and is planning on doing it on a regular basis.

12 November, 2005

I didn't do anything really interesting today. I met up with Serhat and Abdo and we went to Cafe Frida and we drank an interesting coffee like drink called Melengic. After that we went to the art cinema to watch Vodka Lemon (It was good altho I couldn't understand what they were saying and the subtitles were in Turkish). Again, another movie to watch again when I can get a version with english subtitles.

Back at Serhat's place, he put on an english documentary on Diyarbakir. It was really good and maybe I'll be able to get a copy.

13 November, 2005

After a wonderful breakfast at Serhat's, we went to Abdo's apartment and met up with him and Cengis. They taught me how to do some traditional kurdish dancing. It was really fun. We had the music going so loud that the neighbors came and complained. Traditional kurdish music is really good and fast paced. I was also invited to Chengi's wedding on the 22nd, so I'll be coming back to Diyarbakir again.

Again, the rest of the day was just relaxing, talking, and walking about a bit. Counting a few bicycles and watching some videos. Nothing special, just nice.

14 November, 2005

Serhat, my host, is an english teacher at a local high school and he invited me to the school to meet some of the students for a lesson. This time was completely different from Senyurt. It was really like a lesson where I would write things on the board (like a question to the class) and they would answer it (and if needed, Serhat would help). Then they would ask me questions, and I'd write the answer on the board. It was really cool. It was also funny as the students would ask the same questions over and over again. They didn't pay attention to the other students while they were busy at work formulating their next question in their heads.

After school, Serhat and Abdo headed off to go to a yoga lesson. I decided not to go and instead to get to an internet cafe and write the last story. The rest of the evening was spent doing that, and afterwards hanging out with Serhat and Abdo before going to sleep.

15 November, 2005

I decided that today I would walk around the entire outside of the Diyarbakir city wall. I took a bunch of pics, so take a look at the photo album. Most of the time there was a nice patch along the wall, but at one point the wall runs to the edge of a cliff where there used to be a waterfall. From there I had to enter the city and work my way through the buildings to the wall again. I wandered through narrow streets, some crowded with kids playing and some completely empty.

All along the wall there are places where history has left it's marks. Most of the marks are ancient enscriptions in arabic or other old languages. Some of the etchings are of animals and just designs. How old there things are, I have no idea. This city has been controlled by everyone, each leaving their own kind of mark.

One of the highlights of the walk was getting to the Sun Church. It's in one of the towers of the wall and is closed. There are a few windows to look inside and the view is absolutely amazing. I'm not going to describe it. It'll just have to be something that you will have to see for yourself. But if you do come, make sure to look around for all the windows you can. Each one has it's own amazing view.

After the Sun Church, I decided to stay on the inside of the wall for the remainder of my walk. Along the way I headed off to see the Virgin Mary chruch (some really old church, don't know much about it really), but it was closed. I worked my way along the wall to the place where I started. Sitting in the park near the end of my walk were a few guys that I met the previous week with some new people. One of the guys offered to sell me cocaine, so I quickly said no and left. I guess cocaine (actually crack) is getting really popular in Turkey and the drug abuse education is really bad. People don't know what it'll do to you.

The nights activities were great. There was a Blues Festival going through Turkey and tonight it was in Diyarbakir. Me, Abdo, Cengis, Serhat, and a bunch of other guys met up for a taste of Chicago in Turkey. The music was pretty good, altho they didn't play Sweet Home Chicago (it would have been great if they had). I also got to talk to a couple of the band members and they were from Des Plains. We talked a bit about Chicago and what's been going on there, where we've lived, and what we miss about it. It was cool to see someone else from Chicago for the first time since I saw Christing and Matt in Amsterdam (back in April).

16 November, 2005

In the morning I packed up a few things in my bag (leaving stuff like some clothes and my tent) to head off to Hasankeyf. After two hitchhiking rides, I was there. No problem. As I got out of the truck which gave me the first ride to Batman (yes, there is a city in Turkey called Batman, no I don't think he lives there), a car stopped right behind it giving me a ride the rest of the way. I didn't have to do anything. It's great when something like that happens.

When I got to Hasankeyf, I headed through the town to the walkway up the mountain to see the caves. There are over 4000 caves in this ancient city on the Tigris. It was a major trading stop on the silk road and many empires used it as a capital. The mountains in the area are made out of an easily carved rock which enabled the people to make not just caves in the rocks, but entire apartments with multiple rooms.

One of my goals for going to Hasankeyf was to sleep in one of these caves. I found a really nice three room apartment with a ceiling which was not too low. With my little flashlight, I could see engravings on the walls and handles carved into the rock used for hanging things (possibly food or maybe decorations). I left my pack in the cave to go on exploring the surrounding area. I saw the old palace, and old moscue, an ancient grave yard, and so many amazing views. There were a few other people on top of the mountain with me, but not many. Durring the summer it is a major tourist attraction and is crowded. I'm glad I was there durring the low season.

I made a bad decision and didn't bring food with me, so I headed back into town and picked up some veggies, fruit, bread, olives, and other simple things. While I was on my way back up, just before sunset, a local boy tried to stop me from going up the mountain saying it was a problem. I just kept going and disregarded him. I found a nice place to sit on the edge of a killer cliff watching the horizon change colors and as I looked behind me I could see the great big orange full(ish) moon rising over the distant mountains accompanied by the red shine of Mars.

It started getting cold, so I headed to my cave and found it quite comfortable to be in. I was just about the start unpacking my stuff to set up my bed when I started hearing voices calling out and a dog barking. The locals had sent out a search party for me to prevent me from sleeping in the cave. It probably wouldn't be a problem with them, but there are (as I was about to find out) many many wild dogs about and it was just plain dangerous. It's too bad too, because I was planning on sleeping in the palace the following night. As I was walking down the mountain to the city to get a room at the local motel, you could hear many dogs all around the place barking and howling. It's too bad. I wanna sleep in a cave :(.

I ended up staying in the local motel for just 10YTL/night. (normally it's more, but since it's not the busy season, they cut the price). I spent most of the rest of the night talking with the guys running the motel. They are typical turkish assholes. Sorry, but I've been meeting a lot of them. They only care about fucking girls. They want to fuck a girl from every country. One of them claimed to be a gigilo. But they also want all turkish girls to remain virgins until they get married. They don't plan to be faithful once they get married and will often get prostitutes. The worst part is that they think it's funny. Sorry, I'm finished (at least with typing about it).

I managed to politely leave and I went to my room and read every word of english in the National Geographic magazine that Serhat let me borrow. After I was done, I went to the local tea shop (only men there) to watch the last part of the Swiss/Turkish football match. I guess I missed a big fight between the teams. It would have been fun to watch. Oh well.

17 November, 2005

For the entire day I spent my time walking about exploring the caves. I saw some caves that had as many as six rooms. I saw rooms probably used as bath houses, kitchens, toilets, storage, cafe's, and more. Some of them were really interesting to get to while you had to inch your way along a cliff to get to the entrance to find yourself at a cafe with a great view. I found caves with pottery in it, engravings on the walls, and shelved carved into the rock. One cave I found was probably used to keep farm animals. It was a truely cool day.

For about an hour I perched myself on the edge of a cliff with an excellent view of the surrounding mountains and just sat and enjoyed the sun and the warmth (not hot, just warm). After a while I got some company. A grazing donkey took an interest in me and stood and watched me for almost 45 minutes. When I dedided to leave, it started to follow me. It must have been sad when I climbed a wall (with stairs carved into it) as I was going on my way.

One thing about Turkish people is that they are short (not as short as italians, but still a lot shorter than me). The caves are also therefore short. While walking through an archway I failed to crouch enough and really smacked my head hard. A little blood and some scraped off hair was the only damage I got from it, but it still sucks.

After the sun went down, it got quite cold. So, I headed to an internet cafe and did nothing important for a few hours before going to sleep.

18 November, 2005

In the morning, I walked to the edge of town (maybe 1km, not far) to catch a ride to Midyat (the next destination). It took me two rides again. The second one was with a trucker who was taking his load to Iraq. I was tempted to go with him to the border just to see it, but passed on it.

Perhaps the only useful bit of conversation with the motel guys in Hasankeyf was their suggestion to see Mor Gabriel. Mor Gabriel is a monistery. I've never been to one and figured that I might as well check one out to see what it's like. Once I got to Midyat, I asked a police officer that I was passing about Mor Gabriel. He arranged a free ride for me about 25km outside of Midyat to get there. It was a minibus overloaded with people and I ended up squatting on the floor between the door and the guy next to me. They let me off at the end of the road going to the monistery, and after a 3km hike, I was there. It's like a castle in the middle of nowhere.

I entered the place and was introduced to a guy who took me on a tour of their church and other prayer thingies. The monistary is for Syriac Orthodox Christians. They speak a language closely related to Aramaic (which itself is a cross between hebrew and arabic). They claim that it is the language used by Jesus (I have my own doubts about his existance myself) and they also say it's the world's oldest language (bullshit, anybody wanna back me up on this one?).

I was invited to lunch and was lucky that since it was Friday, they were all vegetarians for the day. The lunch was nice and I got to meet all sorts of people including the Arch-Bishop Samuel, Isa (Jesus in Turkish or Syriac, don't know which), and a few others. After, we all went into a sitting room and had some tea. I ended up talking with the Arch-Bishop a bit and he asked if I would like to sleep there for the night. Sure, why not.

There was a service, but I decided not to go. I feel like a trespasser going to services of any kind. It's not a show to entertain people, is it? I ended up sitting and doing nothing for about an hour while it was going on.

After I spent some time walking around the place looking at the building and the surrounding hills. I went outside to find the Arch-Bishop overlooking some construction efforst where some locals where digging up, breaking up and hauling away lots of rock in order to build a new house. They were using no power tools and were breaking these rocks with sledge hammers.

I spoke to the Arch-Bishop a bit and he asked me if I were Catholic or Prodistant. I said neither. When I said I was atheist, his attitude towards me changed. Then he asked me why I didn't go to the service and I explained the whole trespasser thing. I think he really started to dislike me then.

I ended up meeting a student there. His name is Ben and he's from the netherlands. He was telling me about how it's important to him to know the Syriac history and that his family's diamond business supports the church with millions every year. He really let me know how important money is to him. Many times he said "money talks, shit walks." He also kept going on about how he's waiting for the day when Christians rule every corner of the world and he was talking about how great it was that the US invaded Iraq. I asked him about all the deaths, and he didn't care unless they were Christians. Yup, another asshole.

Dinner was alright. More turkish food. Nothing different from the last 6 weeks. (I'm getting a bit tired of the food and I have been fantisizing about Italian food lately). After dinner it was back to just sitting and doing nothing. This must have been about the most boring day in all my time in Turkey. The Monistery was BORING. The people were BORING. And after playing snake on my mobile phone, it too was BORING.

I went to sleep so early. I think it was about 8pm. I just couldn't handle the boredom anymore. They took me to a room they had for guests. In the room they had a wood burning heater. It was the first time they had used it that year. Well, when you store those things for the summer, you coat it in oil to keep it from rusting. My room smelt terrible (burnt oil smell). Also, my bed was far too short for me, by about 10cm.

19 November, 2005

I was awake early (as I went to sleep so early). I just laid in bed waiting for motivation. Then I heard a bell ringing. So I got up and went outside. Someone showed me to breakfast and the Arch-Bishop said something about me being late for breakfast. I just turned to him and said "nobody gave me a schedule" and smiled and condiscending smile at him. It felt great. He didn't say anything else.

I got my stuff and hitched a ride back to Midyat with the monistery's truck which was going that was anyhow. They dropped me off at the end of the city and I later hitched a free ride with a bus. After that, I got a ride with some guys who were really pro-kurdistan. They asked me where I'm from. I always tell people I'm from Berlin just to not have to talk about Bush (the asshole king). Well, these guys got into it anyhow, and I could only just agree with them that Bush did wrong in Iraq. Then they started saying how good Turkey and Germany are together, and I said alright. Then they were getting into Hitler and saying how good he was. Even though they didn't speak english or german, I let them know that Hitler also wanted to kill muslums. I think it made them think a bit. Yup, more assholes.

After they dropped me off, I took a bus the rest of the way to Kiziltepe, where I met up with Aziz who I'd met last week in Sunyurt. We spent the rest of the day talking, playing chess at Best Cafe, and watching TV.

20 November, 2005

The whole of the day was spent just as the previous day. Aziz, an arab-turk, told me all about living in Kiziltepe. There is nothing to do. Again, we spent the day talking, playing chess, and watching TV. We also hung out with his roommates and another teacher from Senyurt.

A little description of the town is this. Nobody cares about anybody else here. Crime is rampant. People throw all their trash on the roads, including discarded pieces of animals they kill on the road and let the blood drain down the street and covering the dead animal's fur. The place smells bad, the people don't wash, and there are frequently fights between people just for looking at them. Fun, eh?

Aziz is a really nice guy. He's from Mersin (a completely different world to Kiziltepe).

21 November, 2005

I hopped on a bus back to Diybakir. On the bus ride, some of the passengers got really interested in me (like usual). I again said I was german and they got into the hitler thing again. I went off on them. Oh well. I need to get west again.

Well, that's it for this story. The next one will continue from me arriving back in Diyarbakir. Today I'm going to a wedding! Cengis is getting married. It's going to be a blast. Tomorrow, I'm heading off again, and this time I'm going to Gaziantep.

So, tell me what you think about this story. I think I was a bit harsh, but I'd met a lot of assholes in the last week. What's kept me from just leaving straight out is the kindness of Serhat, Abdo, Cengis, and their friends. Also visiting Aziz was really nice.

So, it's getting cold here. I'm sure it's been cold by you for a lot longer. I hope you are all staying warm.

Peace,

Perry

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