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Posted by: perry on 11/29/2008 10:50 AM
Updated by: perry on 11/29/2008 10:50 AM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
The Apartment and the Marmoloria

When we arrived in Caracas we headed straight to some people that Emilio and Agustin had made contact with. We met Yamila and Angelo at a marble and granite countertop workshop (a Marmoloria). Anyhow, after a quick lunch we were taken to a completely empty apartment in San Antonio which Yamila's family rented for the four of us. And thus began our time in Caracas (actually San Antonio, a suburb).


The first day was actually quite hectic. We were guests of some very generous people. They provided us with a place to sleep while we organized ourselves in Caracas. The first night we were invited to Yamila's apartment to have pizza and beer and later rum. There we met Yasmin, Yamila's sister, and Gracia, Daniel, and a few other friends of Yamila and Angelo. We had a great time drinking and talking to each other. And things were going great until Austin drank a bit too much rum, started talking really really loud, not making any sense in any language, then passed our drooling on the couch. Emilio and Agustin were pissed off. I was embarrassed more than anything This was a quarter of the group's first impression to people who were giving us a place to live. Soon after Austin passed out, a discussion which was quickly followed by an argument started about Austin. I had a lot of trouble keeping up with the fast Spanish going back and forth. But the main result was that Emilio and Agustin didn't want to travel with, live with, or work with Austin any more. Focus was then on me and they were asking if I wanted to keep traveling with him. Well, I had to think about that one. It was quite late by then and we went to our new apartment. Austin passed out in the toilet.

The next day was a great lazy day for all of us. We didn't have to cycle, pack, unpack, or really do anything. We all needed that, especially after a night of drinking. I told Austin about the discussion/argument of the night before and he just laughed it off.

Then on Friday, the 7th, Yamila took the four of us into the city. Traffic in Caracas is absolute hell. It took forever to get to the center. But we make it and we went to places like Plaza Bolivar, Casa Bolivar, Isquina Caliente, and a park near Bella Artes. Then Yamila took us out for lunch at a really expensive steak house. Austin and i had some nice salads and fried veggies while Emilio and Agustin each got a platter with big pieces of many different types of meat on them. It must have been hard to eat it all, but they pretty much managed. Then we had the ride back. Acutally we spent more time inside Yamila's car than out of it. And we didn't really get much time to talk to her because she's got her cell phone plastered to her face almost constantly.

That evening we went out with Yamila and Angelo to a bar. Well the first bar we went to wouldn't let us in because some of us were wearing sandals. Fuck them! Then we went to a nice little bar called Siete. It was a chilled out small bar with good music but NO BEER. So we drank rum, three bottles of rum. It was a hard night for all of us. We all had a great time and we meet some more friends of Angelo and Yamila too. We got back to our apartment as the sky was starting to lighten. It seems Agustin got sick in the kitchen sink and Austin slept on the floor of the living room just about 5 meters from getting to his bed. Emilio actually made it to his bed unharmed, as did I.

The next day was another of those much needed days of doing nothing. In the evening Dafne (Yamila and Yasmin's mother) came over. I guess she's got some connections maybe as far up as Hugo Chavez, but I haven't seen anything to prove what I've heard. But she does seem to live the life of someone with connections. Dafne is also the one who I think was renting us the apartment and providing us with all sorts of help while we get situated here. She's also the owner of the marble workshop that Yamila and Angelo work at (from what I understand, she has two in Caracas and one on Isla Margarita). Well, she came over and we all got to meet her. Agustin cooked pasta for dinner and we had a few beers with her and Yamila.

On Sunday the 9th we all jumped into Yamila's and Gracia's cars and went to the beach (Playa La Guaira in Vargas). It was Yamila's dog's birthday, so she brought Bob and her other dog with. It took a long time, again, in the car to get to the beach. And I didn't understand why we drove past about 25km of other beaches before stopping at the one we stopped at. But whatever. We all got some sun and salt water. Then we headed back which was a nightmare or a long ride. Traffic was hell. I hate cars. I hate sitting in cars 7 hours of a day just to get 3 hours on a beach. That night we were invited to a birthday party of some 18 year old. Emilio and Agustin went (and came back with cake) and Austin and I didn't go and decided to just stay at the apartment and relax a bit.

On Monday I went with Agustin to get a new rim for my back wheel. Over the last few days I'd taken the hub out of the old rim and cleaned the rear sprockets. We went to all the bike shops in San Antonio but ended up having to go into Caracas to get the rim. At the shop I ended up having to spend a total of 145 BsF (or $70 with the legal exchange rate). Also the guy at the bike shop showed me how to put the spokes on and helped me. He also cleaned out the inside of my hub for me (it was full of sand and it runs a LOT smoother now). Well, after finally getting that done, we headed back. On the bus ride back Agustin asked me to talk to Austin for him and Emilio. It was pretty much a reiteration of what was talked about the first night but one on one so I could understand it better. The basic thing was that Austin was not helpful to the group. They didn't want to be around him any more. It also got me thinking about traveling on my own too. I talked to Austin that evening while Emilio and Agustin were invited to Dafne's house (we weren't even invited). It was a weird conversation and he understood where everyone stood even me.

When Agustin and Emilio came back from Dafne's we were told that they were going to go to Isla Margarita. Dafne was buying them bus and ferry tickets to get there and was going to let them live at the Marmoloria. The offer was not extended to Austin and me. Dafne didn't like Austin and wasn't interested in helping him. I got the same because of my connection to Austin. I know because Agustin told me that directly. Not that I needed or wanted to get to Isla Margarita. But to be excluded solely because of the impression that my friend made sucked. Also, Agustin and Emilio were my friends and they were going off somewhere else.

The next day Austin and I went to meet up with a friend from Berlin. Helge has been living in Venezuela for about 3 years now. We went to his place (after finally figuring out which bus to take) and got to meet his wife and baby boy. We had a nice time talking and we had an excellent pasta lunch. We also watched a documentary which was anti Chavez. The whole Chavez issue is really big here. Dafne is a huge Chavista while Helge and his wife are not.

We went back to the Apartment. Emilio and Agustin were outside waiting with our bicycles (which were in storage at the Marmoloria). They were going to leave for Isla Margarita at 4 in the morning. It was our last night together. Angelo came over with his friend Obed and a case of beer. We had a good time, all of us. Also Austin got a job at the Marmoloria (a different one from the one we first came to) and we would be able to live there. We said our goodbyes to our cycling partners of the last month, 1200km, beaches, jungles, and more. I look forward to catching up with them again, either in Venezuela or in Argentina.

In the morning they were gone. Austin and I spent the morning cleaning the apartment then met up with Yamila in the afternoon. She led us to the Marmoloria and we got ourselves situated. Austin started work the next day.

So, after a week in the apartment we were now living in the dusty marmoloria. On Austin's first day of work I headed into the city to sell my dollars on the black market (you get better than double your money that way). I also walked by an English school while I was there and went in and applied for a job. Actually when I got back to San Antonio, I started looking around for work as an English teacher there too. It was something that I thought I might enjoy doing. But I haven't had any luck.

The following few weeks that we've been living at the Marmoloria has been boring. Austin works 5.5 days a week and I try to fill my days with something to do. I haven't found work, but I don't really care. I won't stay here much longer. But really the days have been blending into each other. There are a few, very few, things to do in San Antonio. In the last 3 weeks we've gone to the Christmas market 3 or 4 times (Obed has a booth there, so we go to talk with him). A few days a week I go into the village to get us food. We've been really lucky because we've been able to get a lot of free vegetables just by asking for the veg which has been taken off the shelf. OK, so we have to cut off a quarter of an eggplant, but the rest is fine. Also they throw away their broccoli stems, which we get for free and cook (they are good, you just have to cut off the woody outside).

We have ended up getting together with Angelo quite a lot. He's a really nice guy and has turned out to be a good friend. I guess he's going to marry Yamila, but we don't see much affection between the two of them. It's kinda weird. He invites us to go out quite often and is usually up for doing just about anything.

So things are pretty much at a standstill right now for us. Austin works at making marble and granite counter tops. I have been trying to improve my Spanish by reading a book in Spanish and in English at the same time so I can go back and forth between the two. There is really not much to do during the week. Everything is closed at about 9ish except expensive bars. We don't go our much or do much of anything. Boring. And we get to watch TV after the workday ends. I hate the TV and am getting sick of sitting there in it's glow every evening. But hopefully that'll change really soon. I'm really just sticking around until I get a package from the US. I'm not sure about Austin and his money situation and if he wants to stick around for a while. I'm also not sure what Emilio and Agustin are up to. They might want to start heading back to Argentina soon. Maybe I'll join them. Everything is really up in the air. All I know is I wanna get away from Caracas. I don't really like it here. It's big, noisy, ugly, and full of those foul smelling cars.

In other news, my parents are gallivanting around eastern Asia right now. I hope they're having fun.

Peace,

Perry




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