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Posted by: perry on 06/15/2008 02:27 PM
Updated by: perry on 06/15/2008 02:27 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Guatemala: Florens, Rio Dulce, Samuc Champay

We entered Guatemala at a small river crossing and headed into the north of Guatemala from there. So far our travels in Guatemala have taken us to Flores, El Romate, Rio Dulce, Livinston, Samuc Champay (wow!), and Guatemala City. We've been through quite a lot and this will probably be just a quick summary.



So, after taking a long narrow boat down the river from Mexico to the border town in Guatemala, we started on our way. It was a terribly fucking hot day and the river water was not that refreshing to swim in (it was like a warm bath). We headed to the immigration office in Betel, Guatemala and ended up spending a good hour talking with the guy that works there stamping passports. He gave us all the general warnings about how dangerous the world is and we took it and added it to all the other grains of salt we've collected.

Then we stared on our way. The road was terrible, packed gravel with big loose stones all over the place. My bags fell off the bike from all the bouncing and we all lost our balance continuously. We had 70km to go before we met asphalt, so we flagged down a bus and took it. After getting off the bus we had our first meal of the day, late in the afternoon, and our first in Guatemala. The food was AMAZING! The tortillas in Guatemala are thicker and I must say they are better than their versions from Mexico.

In the evening we had a clear bright moon to take us on the newly laid smooth asphalt. We went probably 20km before taking refuge for the night next to a river. We took a swim both that night and early the next morning before cycling off to Florens.

In Florens we stayed for a few nights at a hotel which was not actually in Florens but across from the island in Santa Elena. Florens was interesting, but we surely spent too much time there. After a few days we decided to go off to El Romate which is on the way to Tikal. We stopped along the way at a fresh cold sugar cane juice stand. Wow, it was amazing. Then we headed off again on our way to El Romate. It started raining refreshing us from the heat of the day. Well, on the way I was coming to a speed bump and we to slow down when my back wheel locked up on me and my bike just disappeared from underneath me. I landed on my left hip and quickly maneuvered onto my ass (and my padded bicycle shorts) and slid on the wet pavement for at least 10 meters with the bike sliding a couple feet away from me on it's side. Where I fell on my hip I got a nice softball sized patch of road rash and a huge pain in my hip. My bike didn't break at all, not even a scratch.

We continued on our way to El Romate and by the time we got there the soreness of my hip really started getting to me. We found a nice cheap place to stay and struggled up the stairs not being able to walk up the steps with my left leg.

The next couple days I just hung around the hostel stretching my hip working down the swelling and cleaning the roadrash on my hip. During that time Austin and Ariel went to Tikal (there was no way I could do it then, and I wasn't really that interested in going there anyhow).

A couple days later we decided to head out again and I quickly realized how much easier it was to sit on my bike and cycling (although painfully) than to sit in a hammock or chair for just 5 minutes. So we started heading south. We wanted to get to the sea so our next destination was Rio Dulce.

Once there we ended up camping at a marina called Bruno's. It's a really quirky place with yacht owners staying there. It was raining the whole time and there wasn't much to do but read and get stoned. One day we decided to go check out Livinston. We took a boat out there and walked around a little bit. Then we spent the night and went back to Rio Dulce the next day. Livinston was really cool. I'd like to have been able to spend more time there. Maybe some day.

Another couple nights in Rio Dulce waiting for the nonstop rain to quit. Well, it didn't, so we ended up taking a 4x4 truck to Lanquin so we could check out Samuc Champay. Wow, what an amazing place. We ended up sleeping at a place called El Retiro which was fully of backpackers all speaking english. It's one of those places listed in Lonely Planet, which I don't use. Well, we had fun hanging out there. One of the days we decided to cycle from Lanquin to Samuc Champay and it was really tough going. Dirt and stone road up steep roads and then down again. Unfortunately we left really quite too late to get to Samuc Champay and with just 2km left to go it started raining really really hard. I was ahead of the gang and sat there waiting for them to catch up under the roof of a small tienda. Well, Austin came down to meet me and we decided it wasn't worth going since the park would close shortly after we arrived. We ended up busing it back to Lanquin.

But the next day we went to Samuc Champay but this time earlier and by bus. Samuc Champay is totally amazing. There is a really rough and fast flowing river that dives underground for a couple hundred meters. And on top of the cave where the river is flowing another small stream crosses over the river in a series of deep pools and small waterfalls. Crystal clear water and little fish like like to nibble your toes. How nature was able to make such an amazing place is beyond me. I have to say it's a must see and will always be on one of the most amazing natural wonders of the world list, if I ever made one.

From Samuc Champay we took another bus to Coban and started cycling south to go to Guatemala City. The first day was all up and down and up and down. The next day started with pretty much just the same, but then there was a huge downhill rollercoaster ride for at least an hour. Amazing. But eventually it started raining and I stopped and waited for the gang. When they all caught up we hitchhiked to the next gas station to dry off and get a bit of food. Then we caught another ride hoping to get to El Rancho for the night. But he ended up taking us all the way to Guatemala City and dropping us off at a cheap hotel.

But the hotel was really a Ho-tel meaning that you would normally rent a room for just a few hours. We ended up staying 2 nights before moving into another hotel, this one really laid back and much more comfortable. Austin had a couple friend in Guatemala City that we were trying to contact and finally Jenina came and visited us at the second hotel. We talked for a few hours and she said she'd meet us the next day to take us to her house. We ended up staying for a couple nights with her, her hubby, and their little baby just a few months old.

With Jenina and the gang we went to Mixco Viajo, which is a Mayan ruin not on the tourist route. While the 7 of us were there we had the whole site to ourselves. It was amazingly fun and peaceful. And it was nice that it wasn't full of tourists either. Also, Jenina is a cook and we had some really amazing food while at her place. YUM!!!! And her friend, Mario, who came over was really great to talk to as well.

So right now things are going quite well. I need to get new tires for my bike since I've worn them out. And since my wheels are so large it's hard to get good quality ones here. So I'm ordering them and will have to wait for them to arrive. So for the time being Austin and I are going to go to spanish school in Antigua for a couple weeks, maybe three. Who knows. And the road rash on my ass and my hip have recovered already, actually quite quickly. I think I recovered from this injury quite quickly and I'm really really really glad about that. But cycling lately has been more stressful because my tires are really fucking dead. But hey, I've gotten at least 5000km out of the ones that I've got, so that's not so bad. They're just really dangerous now so I don't go so fast anymore.

Peace,

Perry



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